Відео

Brilliant, many thanks, mine was stuck in top position. Now to the question, do I dare to check and glue those sensor, havent decided yet. 😉

Thanks sor. Recently bought rav4 17 with this plastic canister. It was stuck real good, I had to chisel it out 😢 and of course it was destroyed

Awesome work, Niko. Keep it up. I'm sure that Porsche owners around the country appreciate your dedication to repairing their cars.

WHIP SMART

nice. a mechanic is replacing these on our suburban today. It is hard to find a decent mechanic that can correctly diagnose suspension issues. There are a lot of really sloppy mechanics out there from what I am finding out. Even at new car dealerships, they can not be fully trusted sadly. The world is changing to where sloppiness and halfway work is acceptable. It is important to discuss expectations with salesmen because they don't always intend on delivering quality service to you.

Thank you for this video!! I had apply so much force to get that filter housing off I was sure it was going to break. Dealer really tightened the heck out of it. Thanks again

Nice work. Even if Merc did sell the parts I bet it would be fully remove and repair. Always pick a good indy over the dealer.

Just 2 constructive points...Why torque down a oil canister housing? Just snug it in..like a spin on oil filter...Why did you use used motor oil to lube the new O ring on the canister housing? New Synthetic Grease on O ring and threads before install..Please show everyone the details properly....

Great video!! You saved the day You juste saved my customer many hundreds of dollars!!! Thanks

Wow...this is super cool! It's really great that you are able to provide this service to customers. Keep up the great work.

What a cool car. I worked on many of these, in my day. That rear window is very unique.

Wonderful video!! Thank you!! I did everything you said not to do and suffered all the consequences. Fixed it now, thumbs up!!

I need this fix on my 07 911 Targa 4S. The question is, since my mechanics never keep in stock the Bosch starter, nor do they keep in stock the wiring, if I don't want to do the entire replacement and just do the wire, to then see whether my car also needs a new starter, how do I avoid wasting time and money?

Thanks for taking the time to post this. Worked like a charm. Had it working again in less than 10 minutes.

Tell me about it. I had to use a breaker bar to get the filter off after our RX350 had work done in a shop. Meanwhile would somebody tell Toyota that cartridge filters went out 40 years ago... for a reason.

Mine was also smoking from this area… my elbows were oily and easily slip on and off. So annoying how crappy these parts are.

Switch isn’t bad if you separate, I’ve cleaned my contacts and greased. Reassembled and fixed problems.

Fact is, once the cap flange touches the housing it's tight enough. The large o-ring is what seals the filter. When he says "bottom out" That's tight enough!

If only Toyota and Lexus dealers did a seminar on this for all of the oil change folks… Every single time over torqued…

Good video but very bad camera focus..

I have a cold start problem but once its warmed up alittle runs great and it will start easily as well once warmed abit. So I'm guessing my accumilator is good.

Que precio tiene ese turvo

If you running bleed procedure just throw a jump box it so battery doesn't die..

Using a plastic filter cap was a bad idea.

Why I do my own oil changes. Don't need some quicky lube monkey tightening my drain plug or oil filter with a impact gun.

For the 2011 Corolla, there is an inexpensive workaround. I bought a quality brand 1/4 in torque wrench. It generally "clicks when it's supposed to but I was so paranoid after cracking my first filter housing I arrived at a simple workaround that gives me the desired torque, without overtightening. I also do not require a torque wrench. First ... when removing the housing, as gently as possible, unscrew the housing. Do not yank, grab, jerk or wrestle the housing off. Gently, gently unscrew the cap until finger loose. Remove normally after that. When tightening, gently tighten the cap towards the housing (base) surface. Just before you've tightened it fully, ensure you can insert a 0.15mm feeler gauge between the cap and the base. If you have a snug (not tight) fit. You're good to go. But I repeat, gently, gently tighten the housing down to that gap. More and you risk cracking the housing a few months later when you change your filter. Generally that is when the caps crack. This has worked without issue for two full oil changes without leaking and the housing was easy to twist off without an initial jerk or tug to loosen. It just immediately began to twist out as soon as I put the faintest pressure on it. That's it. Guaranteed "decent" accuracy of torque without overtightening and without a torque wrench. Best of days to all.

My problem is the vehicle does not go off when i switch off the key. Any help

Thank you.

Removing the wheel in always a 2 person job? Dude, i alway do this alone while sitting on a rolling detailing chair. Only need 1 2nd person to apply the brakes because you must never torque centerlocks while the car is on the ground. .

I changed my oil for the first time yesterday on my camry and when I was tightening the filter I kept hearing some clicks wasn’t sure when it bottoms out. How can I tell when it bottoms out . Thanks

Promo`SM 😀

Yes, that would be bad for the wheel to come off. What size nuts? Does the wrench come with the car? What's the torque setting? Do you use anti seize? How about some detail a real mechanic would know and share. But, yes, you don't want the wheel to come off. Thanks.

love it😁

Thanks for this video!! Beyond helpful!

Outstanding video 👍 PROFICIENT, Charlie's foreign Car Service Niko Sougias From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 06:59AM Good Morning 🙏 🥶

Great video, as always, Niko. Keep them coming.

Just had this happen to me. On a DIY oil change, noticed the teeth on the cap was broken. Tried to remove and it was so tighten that it cracked on barely touching the opposite teeth end and oil went everywhere. Had to replace with a metal one. Took me just about all day. I’m a bit happy that I did the work myself because if they’d use an impact wrench again it would have been cracked and leaking at some point.

Hi Sir I have a JEEP COMPASS 07...When I'm driving I can hear crackling Sound on the Rear side of my Jeep...what seems to be the problem.thank u

It's funny how the Porsche road cars are much weaker and sensitive to stupid stuff than their racing counterparts... I worked as race engineer in Porsche Carrera Cup Brazil and people always torqued the center lock nut with the car on the ground, with someone braking, because the car doesn't have a parking brake for obvious reasons... Also, their snow flaky ceramic discs make me think it's just a gimmick to sell the car at a higher price. The Porsche GT3 Cup car uses steel brakes, and they certainly produce far more heat, and have a hell lot more braking power than the street counterparts... I see absolutely no reason why they'd need a carbon composite brake that is super fragile when the racing version of the car uses steel brakes...

Thank you! Did this on my Mercedes Benz C 220

Same issue. I knocked off the hoses on the back of the intake like an idiot while doing a repair on a coolant line. And now just driving and driving hoping to get this check engine light off but at least the car is running much smoother now. Before it was running a bit rough when idle at under 1k rpms.

Eric.. Nice to see you on a winning team! Niko & CFG is the Authority on solving problems.

Wrong wrong wrong 😂

This is a very common problem with this particular vehicle. For what it's worth, $8,000 replacement at Land Rover. Unfortunately, I know first-hand lol

Mine is the 2014 Cayenne S. got CEL on with no error code at all, but still I have to 'clear' DTE code to make the CEL light OFF. It happens every time I fuel gas, the CEL on and message says check the gas cap. I think my issue is exactly what you described with that vacuum line leak at the rear of intake manifold. I did a job to replace the coolant vent line before this CEL issue popped up, and I recall that vacuum line to that value makes install the intake manifold very difficult, and I tried multiple times to install manifold while keep the vacuum line connected. I thought I did a clean job, guess it's not , that explains why the CEL on issue right after I've done my DIY job.

Great video this is wanted to see I have a issue with the leak detection pump that I may think it the problem because i have a code 4055 can that code give me that problem also 4056 isit the same because I have because I have change the purge valve canister solenoid that goes in the front and I still was getting a check engine light with a 4055 so my next step is to check the rear for what you showed us perfect video I've been looking for this I'll give you 3 thumbs up every time I fill the tank with a half a tank I have a loose cap on my dash but when I fill it to a quarter I won't have that problem so I'm thinking it's something in the rear by the gas cap because I changed the gas cap twice a new one from the auto part and another one from the dealer and kept on giving me that code after I even changed the purge valve canister solenoid can you tell me if the same code will give me that Leak detection pump issue 😅 thank you very much can you respond back to me and let me know have a great day can the ldp cause a 4055 code Porsche Panamera 2010 Ty

btw, im my case, it doesnt happen if im driving on highways for long and I stop for gas, it does happen only if I literally go around the city for errands (at least based on my initial investigation)... i guess when you go to a store for an hour you are letting the car go under pressure I guess..

yes same problem i have now on my 911SC '82

would be nice to see a tutorial how to change it yourself... i guess remove the hoses first? does the fuel filter need to come off to make space of can you do it without removing it?